How to install a Waste valve
There are times when the water supply into your property has to be isolated before you can tackle certain repairs. You’ve hunted high and low for the stop cock without success. Then you remembered, it’s outside the property in the front garden, success! But wait, you’ve had your front garden paved and the stop cock is underground (somewhere).
The hassle of digging it up is not an option, besides it will ruin its appearance, so what can we do? We could get the waterboard to turn it off from the street (it’s an option)? However, after another search, you’ve discovered the stop cock hiding away at the bottom of a cupboard or under the stairs. You try to turn it off but it’s seized solid! You’ve applied the penetrating oil and WD-40 without success, one of the drawbacks of living in a hard water area I guess? You have applied brute force and feel that one more pull on the pipe wrench will break off the valve stem and risk a flood!
And you can’t complete the job without turning off the water – Stuck! Well, help is at hand. If you’re able to use a screwdriver and a power tool (drill) then you can complete the work without isolating the water supply. No more drain downs or refills.
These isolator valves are a must when vital production cannot be stopped for repairs. Maintenance work in a hospital for instance when a shut down of water supplies is just not possible.
If you are a keen DIY enthusiast then this job is right up your street. Even if you don’t have any plumbing knowledge you can still do it!
- Variable speed power tool
- Easy fit isolator valve (from Screwfix/Amazon/etc).
- Packaged instructions (read fully for complete understanding)
- Choose a suitable sized isolator depending on pipe diameter 15mm (most common) 22mm 28mm
The isolators are versatile and can be used not only on the copper pipe but plastic as well. Always remember that service team Ltd is available to install these valves for you if time is of the essence or you don’t want to take the risk. Just call 020 3918 4497 and one of our team members will advise.
First, run your hand up and down the pipe to make sure there aren’t any heavy scratches or scores. A quick rub with some Emery Cloth can usually remove any scores or burrs and cleans/prepares the area where the valve is to be installed.
Check the items contained in the package – there should be: –
The valve body (with 4 Allen bolts)
- A nylon cover with x screws
- 15mm tool kit
- Socket (with red and blue depth indicators) The blue indicator controls the drill depth, when drilling the pipe so only one wall of the
- The pipe is drilled through
- A screwdriver bit (for the 4 retaining screws on the plastic housing cap)
- An Allen key bit for the 4 Allen bolts
- On the valve stem a plastic sleeve
- Two ‘on’ ‘off’ levers one RED (Hot) one blue (COLD).
- The Instructions – they are there for a reason – So, when all else fails read the instructions!
- Split the valve housing by removing the 4 Allen bolts.
- Place the back part of the housing to the rear of the pipe where the valve needs to sit.
- Place the front part of the valve body over the pipe so it seats onto the back part of the valve.
- You are now ready to insert the 4 Allen bolts to connect the front and back of the valve together.
- Your power tool (hopefully) has an adjustable torque control. The torque control should be set so there is no danger of stripping the threads – remember some drills are quite ‘pokey’ so tone down the torque control.
- The two-valve body halves are in position and ready to receive the 4 Allen bolts. Screw-in each bolt (by hand) so they are snug but not tight.
- When you tighten the bolts use the same technique you would use when replacing a wheel on your car – When tightening the bolts use the ‘diagonal’ method i.e. the top left bolt is 1. The top right is 2. The bottom right is 3. And the bottom left is 4. Pinch tighten bolt 1 first then pinch tight bolt 3 then pinch tight bolt 2 and finally pinch tight bolt 4. All bolts are now seated and you can apply more pressure (same technique) until you are confident the bolts are fully tightened. Don’t overdo it with the power drill.
- Next insert the socket (with the red and blue markings) into the power drill and tighten it with the chuck key.
- Next, insert the socket over the valve spindle attached to the drill.
- You are now ready to begin drilling.
- Apply enough pressure so you see the blue marker (on the socket) move gradually closer to the valve body. As the process nears the end the pressure applied will become easier as the pipe wall is penetrated and the copper plug folds.
Stop when the blue line is level with the front of the collar, remove the drill and remove the collar which exposes the spindle with the plastic sleeve on it.
- Look for the RED dot on the spindle assembly and make sure it lines up with the (hole punched) red dot on the valve body.
- Now remove the plastic sleeve from the spindle and the retaining nut.
- Push the white nylon cap onto the valve body – it should fit snugly with some force (hand only) insert the 4 small screws into the nylon cap and tighten using a hand screwdriver. Tighten using maximum pressure until firmly secured.
- Lastly, attach the lever (red or blue) so the lever is pointing south (or 6 o’clock) and replace the nut and tighten it to secure the lever.
- Turn the lever one-quarter turn (to 9 o’clock) which returns the water supply.
- The repair work on the pipeline can now commence without any fear of flooding.
Remember serviceteam Ltd, if you get stuck. Our highly qualified professional plumbers are at your service 24/7. We provide an extensive range of services from repair, replacement, refurbishment, and maintenance work across London. Visit https://serviceteam.co.uk now for further information or call us and talk to a team member.
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